Munich's gourmet restaurants are as colourful as its districts. We meet top chefs at places where they personally like to have lunch. Nathalie Leblond guides us to Café Nymphenburg Sekt for a plate of Bolognese – and then we accompany her to the kitchen of the gourmet restaurant Les Deux.
For a decade now, the Les Deux has made a name for itself in Munich's old town – comprising a star restaurant upstairs and a brasserie downstairs. Whether you opt for a set menu or á la carte, the cuisine is French-inspired. The chef for both restaurants is 31-year-old Nathalie Leblond. What initially began as a dual management has now become Leblond's sole responsibility – with the support of a young team, some of whom are also close friends.
We meet the star chef for lunch at Viktualienmarkt (market). This market is so diverse that even for me as a local it still offers something new. I am happy when Leblond suggests the Café Nymphenburg Sekt. Although I've strolled past this stall countless times, I've never tried the food before. And I am surprised: Not only is it a wonderful spot to sit and people-watch amidst the hustle and bustle, but the service is also incredibly friendly and all the dishes are delicious.
We sit down on the sun-drenched terrace and the chef tells us: “I love coming to this café during my time off. Not only because of the good wine selection – which my husband, who is a sommelier, really appreciates – but also because of the Bolognese“. It deviates from the classic Italian recipe by adding cream, but it also tastes really fantastic. In addition, we order Schlutzkrapfen (stuffed pasta) with chanterelles and the house-made veal patties. For lunch, there are changing dishes and the menu always includes delicious cakes – and of course the famous Bolo.
Pasta is also high on Nathalie Leblond's list of priorities at home when the star chef cooks on her Sundays off. Working tirelessly in the restaurant for six days a week has never shaken her decision: “I was already standing in the kitchen at the tender age of three and told my mum that I wanted to become a chef. It's not an easy job, but I love it.“ It was more of a coincidence that Leblond eventually ended up in Michelin-starred gastronomy. She also enjoys cooking lunch in the brasserie at Les Deux, she says, where she can try out a dish spontaneously – like lobster toast, spaghetti ice cream, or tarte flambée.
Leblond's culinary journey began in a middle-class inn in her hometown of Nuremberg. “Following the apprenticeship, I actually wanted to stay at the winery; I'm a very loyal person. However, my boss didn't take me on because he wanted me to explore new opportunities. I'm still grateful to him for that today!“ she says. Then it was off to gourmet and TV chef Dirk Luther at the two-star restaurant “Meierei“ in Glücksburg on the Baltic Sea. There, Leblond honed her skills through various stations, had her first encounter with French cuisine and met her future husband.
"I was already standing in the kitchen at the tender age of three and told my mum that I wanted to become a chef."
After five years, the couple moved back to the south: He joined the Les Deux, while she sent applications to all the Michelin-starred restaurants in Munich. Finally, she chose the Atelier at the Hotel Bayerischer Hof, at that time still with Jan Hartwig as head chef. Leblond started as chef de partie and eventually was promoted to sous chef at the three-star restaurant. When the offer of Les Deux came, she initially again wanted to stay, but the prospect of becoming head chef appealed to her: “It was good that we started with a dual management at Les Deux. The great thing about this job is the never-ending learning curve; every day is new; every guest is different.“
However, one stereotype still persists in the culinary industry: There are very few women. Currently, Nathalie Leblond and Sigi Schelling from the Werneckhof, are the only female star chefs in Munich. “I try to get more women join our industry“ she explains, “but there are only a few applicants. Maybe it's because it's a demanding profession where you have to chop bones, lift heavy pots, get burns on your hands and endure little sleep. Above all, we need many more role models in this industry!“
Leblond describes herself as a person of contrasts: “On the one hand, I am lively and dynamic, yet, I can also be quiet and reserved when I meet people for the first time.“ Once a ballerina, you can see her today on Instagram videos carving up a whole lamb. During our conversation, the Michelin-starred chef exudes calm and restraint, but she can also be strict in the kitchen if necessary. Equally important to her is an atmosphere where laughter is shared among the team.
Now my curiosity about Les Deux's cuisine, ambiance and Leblond's team is piqued. We make our way across the Viktualienmarkt to Theatinerstrasse. The Michelin-starred restaurant is nestled in the old town and yet somewhat discreetly tucked in the Schäfflerhof opposite Schumann's Tagesbar. While the brasserie with its large terrace on the ground floor invites you to French classics, cocktails and lunch, the gourmet restaurant on the first floor welcomes its guests for the evening menu. The special feature: The dining room is triangular and, thanks to the floor-to-ceiling windows, offers a magnificent view of the busy city centre.
"It is important for me that star cuisine is accessible. Guests shouldn't have to think much, they should just feel comfortable."
The people behind the Le Deux are the Kieffer family and the restaurant is celebrating its tenth anniversary this year. Because of its location, it is a popular destination for business lunches, with predominantly older and chic clientèle. In the kitchen, however, there is often loud old-school hip hop playing, the entire team is around thirty, the head pastry chef is one of Leblond's best friends and the sous chef is a close buddy, too. She has worked with them before at the restaurant Atelier. When you work with friends, it's crucial to define what is important to you beforehand. Leblond knows that open communication is vital.
Qualities she still has from her ballet days, namely ambition and perfectionism, are deeply ingrained in her. She expects these standards not only from herself, but from her team as well. At the same time, she has had to shed some of it in her job as a chef, realising that it is impossible to scrutinize every detail when serving 80 guests. Leblond starts preparing the evening service, crafting a potato roll filled with scallop tartare and cockles: “I love fish, acidity and nuts. My cuisine is classic, but always with a twist. It is important for me that star cuisine is accessible. Guests shouldn't have to think much, they should just feel comfortable.“
